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Suncare Corner

TGA Approved SPF 50+ Pure ZnO Sunscreen

This daily wear ZnO sunscreen cream provides SPF 50+ protection without using organic UV filters. It has been designed for our harsh Australian summers. is TGA approved and tested for SPF locally! PEG-free Olivem® 2090 G is the sole emulsifier offering exceptional emulsifying performance combined with excellent sensorial and hydration benefits. In this formulation, Solastay® S1 will mitigate the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species-generating activities of zinc oxide. Uncoated in this formula. Hallbrite® BHB significantly increases the in vivo SPF performance of this formula through the reduction of electron transfer and photoprotection mechanisms.

Phase 
INCI Name 
Trade Name 
 % Wt 
A 
Zinc Oxide 
22% 
A
Butyloctyl Salicylate 
HallBrite® BHB 
7% 
A
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene 
Solastay ® S1 
5% 
A
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate 
Hallstar® Octyl Isononanoate 
13% 
A
Polyglyceryl 4 Oleate (and) Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate 
Olivem® 2090G 
3% 
A
PVP/Hexadecane Copolymer 
2% 
B 
Dextrin Palmitate 
1.50% 
C 
Disodium EDTA 
0.05% 
C
Sodium Chloride 
1% 
C
1,3 Butylene Glycol 
5% 
C
D.I. Water 
40.45% 

PREPARATIVE PROCEDURE:

1. Homogenize phase A for 20mins at 10000rpm

2. Prepare phase A and heat phase A up to 80-85°C

3. Add phase B to phase A with anchor pale at 500rpm, keeping the temperature to 80-85°C

4. Prepare phase C and heat phase C up to 75-80°C

5. Add very slowly phase C to phase AB with anchor pale at 250rpm, keeping the temperature to 80-85°C

6. Stir the phase ABC under anchor pale for 2 minutes at 250rpm

7. Homogenize the phase AB, using a suitable dispersion unit (Silverson) for 2 minutes

​

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS (25°C)

Appearance: Pale yellow cream

Viscosity :10,000 – 15,000 mPas

pH (as is): 7-8

 

SPF : 63 - tested according to ISO 24444:2019 on 3 subjects in Australia UVA-PF: 22

Multi-Purpose W/O SPF 50 Sun Milk

This multi-purpose formula combines a very low in viscosity with a light and nourishing skin feel. It uses 25% of Eclipse Z1 zinc oxide as main active and provides unparallelled transparency and aesthetics on skin. The SPF performance of the formula is boosted by Hallbrite BHB.

Phase 
INCI Name 
Trade name 
% 
A 
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate 
3% 
A
Zinc Stearate  
HallStar® Zinc Stearate 
0.50% 
A
Butyloctyl Salycilate 
Hallbrite® BHB
5% 
A
Tocopherol 
Biochemica® Vitamin E Natural
0.05% 
B 
Octyldodecyl neopentanoate 
30% 
B
Polyhydroxy Stearic Acid  
0.80% 
B
Zinc Oxide  
Eclipse® Z1
25% 
C 
Sodium benzoate 
0.30% 
C
Potassium sorbate 
0.30% 
C
Aloe barbadensis 
Biochemica® BioVera 200X
0.50% 
C
Sodium gluconate 
0.05% 
C
Glycerin 
1% 
C
Sodium Chloride 
0.90% 
C
Aqua 
to 100 

PREPARATIVE PROCEDURE

  1. Prepare phase B by adding Polyhydroxystearic Acid to Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate and heat to 80-85˚C

  2. Add Eclipse Z1 and disperse well for several minutes (e.g. homogenizer) until smooth

  3. Add ingredients of phase A to B and stir well

  4. Prepare water phase C by adding Glycerin to water and mix well

  5. Add other Phase C ingredients and mix thoroughly

  6. Slowly add water phase C to oil phase (A+B) and emulsify until a smooth emulsion is obtained

  7. Add fragrance when desired

SUNSCREEN PERFORMANCE

In-vitro ISO-24443/Helio2

SPF 51

UVA-PF 19

Critical wavelength 372 nm​

​

In-vivo ISO-24444

SPF (n=5) 53.0

FDA

UVA-I/UV ratio >0.8

Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50+ ( JZ16-174B)

This natural, non-whitening ZnO sunscreen cream provides SPF 50+ protection without using organic UV filters. PEG-free Olivem® 2090 is the sole emulsifier in its cold-process W/O emulsification. In vitro analysis suggests SPF ~ 64, PFA (PPD COLIPA 2011) ~ 20, UVA1/UV = 0.80, and critical wavelength 372 nm.

Phase 
INCI Name 
Trade Name 
% 
A
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
HallStar® Octyl Isononanoate
12.00
A
Zinc Oxide (68%), Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene, Polyhydroxystearic Acid
HallBrite® ZDX Clear
37.00
A
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Olivem® 2090G
4.00
A
Tocopherol
Biochemica® Vitamin E Natural
0.20
A
Dimethicone (5 cSt)
4.00
A
Vegetable Oil (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
SolaPure™Glo
5.00
B
Zinc Stearate
HallStar® Zinc Stearate
1.00
C
Water (Aqua)
up to 100
C
Glycerin
2.00
C
Sodium Chloride
1.00
C
Preservative
a.n

PREPARATIVE PROCEDURE

  1. To the main vessel, add phase A with some heat to melt SolaPure™Glo

  2. completely, then add phase B and mix until uniform. To a secondary vessel add phase C, and mix until uniform.

  3. When AB and C phases are homogeneous, very slowly add phase C to phase AB with strongly mixing until uniform.
     

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS (25°C)

Appearance Off-white lotion

Viscosity (20 rpm, Brk, RV DV-II, T-D, after 24h at room temperature; mPa·s) : 2000 – 2500

High UV Protection Lotion SPF 50 (JZ15-17)

This water-in-oil, zinc oxide-only sunscreen lotion provides SPF 50 sun protection without using organic UV filters. PEG-free Olivem® 2090 is the only emulsifier used in this cold process. SolaPure® Glo is a multifunctional emollient with antioxidant benefits. In vitro analysis suggests SPF ~ 55, PFA (PPD COLIPA 2011) ~ 22, UVA1/UV = 0.84, and critical wavelength 378 nm.

Phase 
INCI Name 
Trade Name 
% 
A
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
HallStar® Octyl Isononanoate
10.00
A
Butyloctyl Salicylate
HallBrite® BHB
5.00
A
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
5.00
A
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
SolaStay® S1
3.00
A
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Olivem® 2090G
4.00
A
Vegetable Oil (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
SolaPure™Glo
6.00
A
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
HallStar® Zinc Stearate
1.00
B
Zinc Oxide
17.00
C
Glycerin
2.00
C
Water (Aqua)
up to 100
C
Sodium Chloride
1.00
C
Preservative
a.n

PREPARATIVE PROCEDURE

  1. To the main vessel, add phase A with mixing until uniform. Heat up to melt SolaPure™ Glo if needed

  2. Add phase B into phase A, and mix strongly until uniform.

  3. To a secondary vessel add phase C with mixing:

  4. When AB and C phases are homogeneous, very slowly add phase C to phase ABC;

  5. After combination, strongly mix or homogenize until uniform.

 

PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS (25°C)

Appearance Off-white lotion

Viscosity (20 rpm, Brk, RV DV-II, T-D, after 24h at room temperature; mPa·s) : 8000 – 12000

Mineral-based SPF 50 Spray with Eclipse® Z1

A unique mineral-based sunscreen spray that leaves a luxurious soft-touch after-feel. The formula is designed to have a very low viscosity, making it ideal for spray and serum-like applications. When not used, it forms a meta-stable system, preventing aggregation of Eclipse Z1 and is activated upon shaking.

Phase 
INCI Name 
Trade Name 
% 
A
Sorbitan Olivate
Olivem® 900 MB
0.50
A
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
40.00
A
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
0.60
A
Caprylic/capric Triglyceride
5.00
A
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Hallbrite® BHB
5.00
B
Zinc Oxide
Eclipse® Z1
25.00
C
Tocopheryl Acetate
2.00
C
Zea Mays Germ Oil, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract
1.00
C
Tocopherol
Biochemica® Vitamin E Natural
0.10
C
Bisabolol
RTD Alpha-Bisabolol Natural
0.50
C
Fragrance
0.25
D
Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
4.00
D
Octyl Palmitate
HallStar® OP
15.85

PREPARATIVE PROCEDURE

  1. In the main vessel, prepare phase D by powerful mixing to disperse Cosmedia Gel CC in Ethylhexyl Palmitate

  2. Melt ingredients of phase A, add to phase D and mix until smooth and homogenize

  3. Cool mixture down to room temperature and add ingredients of phase C. Mix well until smooth and homogeneous

  4. Under continuous mixing, add Eclipse Z1 gradually until absorbed

  5. Homogenize to disperse Eclipse Z1 properly until a smooth mixture is obtained

SUNSCREEN PERFORMANCE

In-vitro ISO-24443/Helio2

SPF 50.3

UVA-PF 19.5

Critical wavelength 373nm

​

In-vivo ISO-24444

SPF (n=5) 51.5

FDA

UVA-I/UV ratio >0.8

This formulation is an anhydrous low-viscous system that forms a meta-stable equilibrium when not being used. It is a shake-before-use formulation that is activated while lowering the viscosity that is ideal for spray and serum-type applications.

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